What it costs to heat a whole house with underfloor heating, and the one part you can't leave until later
Most homes land between R1,350 and R1,750 per square metre on water, incl VAT; electric from R635 per m2. Only a third of the water system has to go in with the screed. This page shows where every rand goes, using real Synergy jobs, so you arrive at your free site assessment knowing what your home will cost and why.
Price per m² The five phases Real jobs Running cost Electric FAQ
The short answer. Hydronic (water) underfloor heating costs from R950 to about R2,000 per square metre (m2) installed, incl VAT, and most whole-home systems in South Africa land between R1,350 and R1,750 per m². The top of the range is where perlite floor insulation goes under the whole house. Only the work that goes under the screed has to happen at build stage: the heating pipe at R445 to R560 per m² (R385 to R485 ex VAT) plus the buried feed lines to the plant room, together about R500 to R660 per m². Perlite floor insulation under the pipes is separate, from R185 per m², and we recommend it on every installation. The manifolds, controls and heat pump can be added later as your budget allows.
Electric underfloor heating costs R635 to R865 per m² installed in a typical bedroom, kitchen or living room, R920 to R1,325 in a bathroom or other wet room, and R800 to R1,254 averaged across a whole house, incl VAT. That's roughly what the water system's build-stage work costs on its own. Electric is cheaper to install and far more expensive to run, which makes it the right choice for a single bathroom and the wrong one for a whole house.
Underfloor heating price per square metre: three numbers for every house type, not one
A single "from" price tells you nothing about your house. For each configuration we show the floor, where most homes land, and what a complex home costs, with the reason for each.
Whole home
Medium to large, new build or major renovation
The lowest cost per m² of any residential configuration, and the one that gets the most out of a solar PV system.
Indicative, incl VAT. Fixed written quote after a free site assessment.
Get a quotePartial home
Selected rooms: living, dining, main bedroom
A good balance of comfort and budget: heat the rooms you live in and leave the rest.
Indicative, incl VAT. Fixed written quote after a free site assessment.
Get a quoteBathrooms only
Small zones, highest cost per m²
We'll quote it, and we'll often suggest extending into the adjacent bedroom or passage for better value per m².
Indicative, incl VAT. Fixed written quote after a free site assessment.
Get a quoteCommercial and guesthouse
Custom design after a site visit
Guesthouses, lodges, retirement villages, offices, churches and cold-store floors are designed and quoted individually.
Site assessment required. Full SANS 10142 compliance.
Request a site visitThe five phases of a water underfloor heating installation
Every Synergy quote is built and invoiced in five phases, with floor insulation quoted as a separate line. The shares below come from our recent whole-home jobs. Only the build-stage rows have to happen when the floor is poured.
| Phase | What it includes | Share of total | When it goes in |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Heating pipe | Oxygen-barrier PEX or PERT pipe laid room by room, fixings, pressure-test kit, manifold enclosures set into the wall, pipe installation labour. R445 to R560 per m² incl VAT (R385 to R485 ex VAT). | 30 to 45% | Before the screed Build stage |
| 2. Flow and return | Insulated 28 to 40 mm feed lines from the plant room to each manifold, buried under the slab or in sleeves, with isolation valves and service tags at both ends. Sized for a heat pump from day one, even if a heat pump comes later. | 3 to 6% | Before the screed Build stage |
| + Floor insulation | SUNPERL perlite-cement screed laid under the pipes, 20 mm as standard. Not part of the heating system price, but we recommend it on every installation: it stops heat bleeding into the slab and is the single biggest lever on running cost. From R185 per m² incl VAT (R159 ex VAT). Perlite floor insulation | Optional add-on | Before the screed Build stage |
| 3. Distribution manifold | Brass manifolds with flow meters, ball valve sets, temperature and pressure gauges, manifold installation. | 6 to 8% | Any time after the screed |
| 4. Thermostatic controls | Room thermostats (analog, digital or wi-fi), actuators, base units, control box and thermostat installation. | 10 to 12% | Once floor coverings are in |
| 5. Heat source | Inverter or fixed-speed heat pump, buffer tank, expansion tank, circulation pumps, pipework and fittings, delivery, rigging and commissioning. | 30 to 50% | Any time after the screed |
Perlite: the add-on we'd never skip
A 20 mm SUNPERL perlite-cement screed under the pipes stops heat bleeding into the slab, so the floor warms faster and the heat pump runs less. It's quoted as its own line from R185 per m² incl VAT (R159 ex VAT), goes in at build stage with the pipes, and is the reason the higher figures on this page are higher.
Perlite floor insulation
Why the feed lines can't wait. A heat pump moves a lot of water at a low temperature, so the lines between the plant room and the manifolds are 28 to 40 mm and heavily insulated. Adding them after the floors are finished means trenching through tiles or paving, or running trunking across outside walls. Laid with the build, they cost 3 to 6% of the system and are never seen again.
Other names for the same thing. Hydronic underfloor heating, water underfloor heating, radiant floor heating and wet underfloor heating all describe this system: warm water in pipes under the floor. Gas underfloor heating is the same pipework fed by a gas boiler instead of a heat pump, and it's the closest thing South Africa has to central heating without radiators on the walls.
Why the shares vary. A house with six big areas and four thermostats puts more of its budget into the heat pump. A house with thirteen small rooms and a thermostat in each puts more into pipe and controls. That's why we publish shares rather than a fixed rand figure per phase: the shares hold, the rands depend on your floor plan.
You don't have to pay for the whole system on day one
The floor is the one part of a water underfloor heating system you can't add later. Everything else sits above it and can wait. That changes how you should think about the cost.
The one decision you can't undo. Pour the screed without pipes and water underfloor heating is off the table for the life of that floor. Install electric and it can never be upgraded to anything cheaper to run. Lay the pipes and the feed lines now, and every other choice, which heat source, which controls, when to connect, stays open for as long as you own the house.
What you commit to now, and what can wait
| Heated area | Water, build stage now (phases 1 and 2) | Add perlite insulation (recommended) | Water, full system, typical | Electric, whole house, typical |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 120 m² | R60,000 to R79,000 | from R22,000 | R162,000 to R210,000 | R76,000 to R104,000 |
| 180 m² | R90,000 to R119,000 | from R33,000 | R243,000 to R315,000 | R114,000 to R156,000 |
| 250 m² | R125,000 to R165,000 | from R46,000 | R338,000 to R438,000 | R159,000 to R216,000 |
Incl VAT, rounded. Build stage at R500 to R660 per m² (pipes plus feed lines), full water system at R1,350 to R1,750, electric at the typical R635 to R865. perlite floor insulation is 20 mm perlite-cement screed under the pipes at R185 per m² incl VAT, quoted as its own line; it goes in at build stage too. Read the highlighted column against the right one: laying the water pipes now costs less than putting electric in the whole house, and leaves you with a floor that will run at a quarter of the cost once the heat pump is on.
Lay the foundation
Heating pipe, manifold enclosures and the buried feed lines go in before the screed, with perlite insulation under the pipes if you take our recommendation. Every loop is connected to its manifold, filled, and left under 4 to 6 bar of pressure with a gauge fitted, so the floor is protected while the builder works and ready for heating whenever you connect it. The pipe manufacturer's warranty starts the day the phase 1 pressure test is signed off.
Add the rest in stages
Manifolds, then controls, then the heat source. Each phase is quoted and invoiced on its own. Phase 1 is a fixed price on deposit. The plant is quoted as a baseline and re-checked against supplier prices and the exchange rate before it's ordered, because 12 to 24 months can pass on a custom build and the equipment is imported. If you'd rather lock the price, you can buy the phase 5 equipment upfront and we store it until the house is ready.
Start with a cheaper heat source, upgrade later
The pipes don't care what warmed the water. If the heat pump is a step too far this year, the system can be commissioned on a gas boiler or an inline electric vessel and switched to an inverter heat pump later, without draining the floor. The feed lines, valves and DB capacity are sized for the heat pump from day one, so the upgrade is a plant-room job, not a building job. The boiler can stay on as backup for the coldest nights, or be removed.
The five phases in 69 seconds
A real Synergy installation, from pipe layout and pressure test to manifold, heat pump and commissioning.
What protects the floor while you wait
Two things to know before you phase
Phasing costs a little more than doing it in one go. Each return visit carries its own site establishment, travel and a full re-test of the floor before connection, about R6,000 to R11,300 incl VAT per extra visit. On a R250,000 system that's a few percent, and it buys you the ability to spread the rest across a year or two.
Electric is still the right answer for a single small room. For one bathroom or one bedroom on an existing floor, electric costs less to install and the running cost is small because the area is. The phased argument is a whole-house argument: if the reason you're considering electric for a whole house is the upfront number, lay the water pipes instead and add the heat pump when you can.
Phasing only works on new builds and renovations where a screed is going down anyway. If your floors are already finished, electric underfloor heating is the answer for a single room, carbon fibre wall heating warms whole rooms without lifting a floor, and a water system can still go in where floors are being redone during a renovation (see the hydronic page).
We're there for every step that touches the floor
Underfloor heating only goes wrong when it's left to the builder to figure out. With Synergy it isn't: the same installers who lay the pipes commission the system. On acceptance we send a builder's requirements list to the builder, the electrician and you, and our system designers are on site for the three moments that matter: when the pipes go down, when the screed is poured, and when the plant is connected. We book the pipe installation around the screed date so no trade waits on us.
What the builder provides: a wall chase for the manifold enclosure (about 900 x 1300 mm), a conduit from each thermostat position to the enclosure and one to the floor for the sensor, a level cement base of roughly 1.5 x 1.5 m for the heat pump, an open trench for the feed lines and draw-wires before the slab, and a structural engineer's sign-off where the screed floats. Nothing is switched on for 21 days after screeding so the screed can cure.
| Floor finish | 5 to 25 mm. Tile, porcelain, natural stone, engineered wood, specified vinyl or polished screed. |
|---|---|
| Screed with the pipes in it | 40 to 70 mm over the pipes, 65 mm typical. Thicker stores more heat and runs more evenly; thinner responds faster but limits the finishes you can use. |
| Heating pipe | 16 mm oxygen-barrier PEX or PERT, clipped to the insulation or mesh, spacing set by the room-by-room heat-load design. Pressure-tested to 6 bar and held through the pour. |
| Insulation | 20 mm SUNPERL perlite-cement screed, recommended on every floor; without it, more heat goes down into the slab than you'd like. |
| Slab | Pipes can also be cast into the slab itself: slower to warm, excellent heat storage. We recommend which on the site assessment. |
| Water temperature | 35 to 45 degrees in the loops, which is why a heat pump suits it so well. |
Two recent whole-home quotes, phase by phase
Both are 2026 quotes for water underfloor heating with inverter heat pumps and individually controlled zones, one in Cape Town and one in Sandton. Same components, very different houses, and that's the point.
A typical family home, 296 m², Cape Town
| 1. Heating pipe | R137,069 | 28% |
|---|---|---|
| 2. Flow and return | R29,404 | 6% |
| 3. Manifolds | R30,822 | 6% |
| 4. Controls | R50,364 | 10% |
| 5. Heat source | R235,055 | 49% |
| Total incl VAT | R482,714 | 100% |
R1,630 per m²
Build stage (phases 1 and 2): R166,473, or R562 per m². Estimated running cost about 79% below electric underfloor heating for the same floors.
A complex renovation, 243 m², Sandton
| 1. Heating pipe | R189,272 | 39% |
|---|---|---|
| 2. Flow and return | R14,873 | 3% |
| 3. Manifolds | R33,381 | 7% |
| 4. Controls | R59,269 | 12% |
| 5. Heat source | R190,834 | 39% |
| Total incl VAT | R487,629 | 100% |
R2,005 per m² (Silver: R1,635)
Build stage (phases 1 and 2): R204,145, or R839 per m². Two things push it up: perlite insulation under the whole floor is inside the pipe phase on this quote rather than on its own line, and small rooms need more pipe and more circuits per square metre than open-plan space. Strip the insulation out and the pipe phase is about R590 per m².
Same rooms, same warmth, R90,000 apart
Most of the spread between R1,350 and R2,000 per m² comes down to three choices, pipe grade, thermostat type and the kind of heat pump, plus whether perlite insulation goes under the floor. Here's how the three choices compared on the 243 m² job above, which has perlite in both options.
| Gold: PEX pipe, premium controls | Silver: PERT pipe, value spec | |
|---|---|---|
| Floor pipe | PEX EVOH oxygen barrier 16 mm | PERT II Evo triple layer 16 mm |
| Thermostats | Digital, per room | Analog, per room |
| Heat pump | Inverter (modulates to the load, soft start) | Fixed speed (full power, on and off) |
| Running cost, year 1 | R23,415 | R32,297 |
| Investment incl VAT | R487,629 | R397,691 |
| Per m² | R2,005 | R1,635 |
Which one? The inverter heat pump costs more and runs about 28% cheaper than fixed speed, so on this house the Gold premium pays for itself in about eight years and the extra saving is yours for the life of the system. If the budget is tight, Silver with an inverter upgrade later is a sound route, because the pipes and manifolds don't change.
Six things that push your cost up or down
Pushes the cost per m² down
- Large, open-plan areas. Fewer circuits and less pipe per square metre.
- Thermostats shared across zones. One control for a living and dining area instead of two.
- Insulation already in the slab. Nothing to add under the pipes.
- Manifolds close to the plant room. Short feed runs.
- A new build. Pipes go in while the floor is open anyway.
- Silver spec. PERT pipe, analog thermostats, fixed-speed heat pump.
Pushes the cost per m² up
- Many small rooms. More circuits, more pipe, more actuators.
- A thermostat in every room. Each one is a device, a conduit and an installation.
- Premium or wi-fi controls. Meaningful cost, though they cut runtime.
- Two heat pumps. Larger homes need a second unit.
- Perlite insulation under the whole floor. From R185 per m², and worth it: it's the biggest lever on running cost.
- Retrofit. Floors lifted, screed depth to be found.
- Distance. Travel is quoted separately beyond 100 km from a branch.
"I'll just put in a wood stove, a gas fireplace or aircon." What each one really costs to run
We have this conversation most weeks, so here are the numbers. Every option below is priced on the same basis: what it costs to put one kilowatt-hour of heat into your room, at 2026 Gauteng fuel prices, incl VAT.
Cost per kilowatt-hour of heat
What it costs to put one kWh of warmth into the room, incl VAT. The bar shows the range; the darker part is the low end.
Electricity at R4.15 per kWh, the upper municipal block heating falls into (Tshwane tiers 3 and 4: R4.75 and R5.12; Cape Town domestic: R4.14 to R4.94). Heat pump delivers 3.5 to 4 units of heat per unit of electricity; a split aircon 2.5 to 3 in a Highveld winter. LPG at R40 per kg, 13.6 kWh per kg, against the June 2026 gazetted Johannesburg maximum of R42. Dry hardwood at R3.60 to R5.00 per kg delivered, 4 kWh per kg, 75% into the room in a closed unit. Running cost only; appliance, flue, gas line and installation excluded.
A 180 m² house, one winter
100 heating days, 18,000 kWh of heat, incl VAT. The honest comparison for a whole house.
The per-kWh chart is the fair comparison for a single room, and it's where the wood stove and the aircon hold their own. This one is the honest comparison for a whole house, because the alternatives were never designed to heat one: a stove or a gas fire warms the room it's in, and the bedrooms stay cold.
What each option is good at, and what it isn't
Water underfloor heating
For: lowest running cost, every room warm, silent, no dust blown about, runs on solar, pipes last up to 50 years, nothing to feed or refill.
Against: highest upfront cost, must go in with the screed, slow to change temperature, so it's a set-and-leave system rather than an on-demand one.
Closed combustion wood stove
For: cheap heat per kWh, works in a power cut, the fire itself is the point for many people.
Against: one room, you're the thermostat, wood to buy, stack and carry, ash to clear, a flue to sweep, smoke on still winter nights, and it's cold again by morning.
Reverse-cycle aircon
For: cheap to run for one room, instant, cools in summer, low install cost per unit.
Against: blown warm air dries the room and stirs dust, noise, heat collects at the ceiling, output drops on the coldest nights when the outdoor unit defrosts, and a whole house means a unit in every room.
Gas fireplace
For: instant flame at the flick of a switch, no wood, works in a power cut, looks the part.
Against: at 2026 LPG prices it costs about the same to run as an electric heater; flueless units add moisture and combustion gases to the room and need ventilation; cylinders run out on the coldest night; one room.
Electric underfloor heating
For: cheapest to install, no plant room, quick to fit in a renovation, right for a single bathroom or bedroom.
Against: the most expensive heat there is per kWh, a whole house needs a supply most homes don't have, and it can never be upgraded to anything cheaper.
Panel and oil heaters
For: cost nothing to install, plug in anywhere.
Against: same R4.15 per kWh as electric underfloor, one room at a time, and the reason winter electricity bills double. Fine for a week; expensive for a season.
The short version. Per unit of heat, a heat pump water system, a wood stove and an aircon cost about the same, between R1 and R1.70 per kWh. Gas and electric cost three to four times that. The difference is what you're heating: the stove and the aircon heat a room, and the water system heats the house. If you only ever want one warm room, buy the stove. If you want a warm house, the running cost of doing that with anything other than a heat pump is what the right-hand column shows.
The numbers behind the water versus electric line
| 243 m² home, 100 heating days a year | Inverter heat pump | Electric underfloor |
|---|---|---|
| Heat delivered to the floors | 24.3 kW | 24.3 kW |
| Electrical draw | About 4.7 kW average | 24.3 kW (106 A supply) |
| Electricity used per year | 5,642 kWh | 24,320 kWh |
| Year 1 running cost at R4.15/kWh | R23,415 | R100,928 |
| Year 5 running cost (8% tariff growth a year) | R31,856 | R137,311 |
Figures from a 2026 Synergy design at Gold spec. Our running cost models use R4.15 per kWh incl VAT, escalating 8% a year, in line with the medium-term NERSA framework rather than the double-digit years. Many distribution boards can't supply 106 A for electric floor heating without an upgrade; the heat pump asks for about 6.5 kW.
Fuel and tariff figures as at September 2026, reviewed every year.
Where electric underfloor heating fits, and what it costs
Warmup undertile heating cable under tile and stone, with a thermostat and floor sensor per room. Quick to install, no plant room, and the right choice for small areas and rooms where a screed isn't being poured.
Electric, installed
Warmup elements, thermostat, floor sensor, electrician-certified, CoC issued
Right for: one or two small rooms, a bathroom renovation, an upstairs room over timber, any floor where a screed isn't going down. Indicative, incl VAT (R550 to R1,150 ex VAT). Fixed written quote after a site assessment.
Undertile cable under tile and stone only. On new builds, 10 mm insulation board or 20 mm perlite screed under the cable is quoted as its own line. For a laminate or carpeted floor that is staying, we point you to carbon fibre wall heating instead.
Electric underfloor heating pageWater or electric: the cost rule of thumb
A simple way to decide
- One room, small area, existing floor: electric.
- Whole house, new build or renovation: water, phased if the budget needs it. The build-stage work costs about what electric would.
- Whole house, existing floors, no screed: neither is easy. Talk to us about carbon fibre wall heating.
- Solar PV planned: water. The heat pump load is small enough for the panels to carry; electric would need close to three times the array.
Not sure? The underfloor heating hub compares both systems side by side.
The number you can trust is the one on the quote
Every system we install is designed for the house it goes into: room-by-room heat loads, pipe spacing, circuit lengths, manifold positions and heat pump sizing. The figures on this page tell you what to expect. The quote tells you what it costs.
Our underfloor heating installers work from Centurion, Cape Town and Polokwane, which covers Pretoria, Johannesburg, Sandton, Midrand, the Cape Peninsula, the Winelands and most of Limpopo within the 100 km free-assessment radius. Beyond that, travel is quoted as a separate line upfront. We measure, check insulation plans and the build programme, and talk through heat sources.
A written quote with each phase priced separately, valid for 30 days. Phases 1 and 2 are fixed on deposit. Plant for later phases is a baseline that's re-checked against supplier prices and the exchange rate before ordering, or fixed now if you buy it upfront.
Each phase is invoiced as it's completed. Lay the pipes with the build and add the rest when you're ready. Every system is technician-installed, electrician-certified and handed over with a Certificate of Compliance covering the installed work.
Underfloor heating cost questions
What is the underfloor heating price per m2 in South Africa?
The price of water (hydronic) underfloor heating runs from R950 to about R2,000 per square metre (m2) installed, incl VAT, and most whole-home systems land between R1,350 and R1,750 per m2; the top of the range is where perlite floor insulation goes under the whole house. Electric underfloor heating costs R635 to R865 per m² in a typical room, R920 to R1,325 in a bathroom or wet room, and R800 to R1,254 averaged across a whole house. Electric costs less to install and considerably more to run.
What does the pipework alone cost?
The heating pipe phase, which is pipe, fixings, pressure testing, manifold enclosures and installation labour, costs R445 to R560 per m² incl VAT (R385 to R485 ex VAT). With the buried feed lines to the plant room, the build-stage work comes to about R500 to R660 per m², roughly a third of the total system cost. perlite floor insulation, which we recommend under every system, is quoted separately from R185 per m².
What does phase 1 cost on a 180 m² house?
About R90,000 to R119,000 incl VAT for the pipes, manifold enclosures and feed lines, which is everything that has to go in before the screed, plus about R33,000 if you take the perlite floor insulation we recommend. The full water system on the same house is typically R243,000 to R315,000. Electric throughout would be R114,000 to R156,000, so the build-stage water work costs about the same as electric or less, and leaves you with a floor that runs at a quarter of the cost once the heat pump is on.
Can I install the pipes now and add the heat pump later?
Yes, on a new build or renovation where a screed is being poured. Pipes, manifold enclosures and feed lines go in with the build, connected, filled and held at 4 to 6 bar with a gauge on the manifold. Manifolds, controls and the heat source follow when your budget allows. Each phase is quoted and invoiced separately, and a gauge re-test is done before any plant is connected.
How long can the pipes stay unused?
PEX and PERT pipe in screed doesn't degrade sitting dormant; 12 to 36 months between phases is routine on custom builds. The pipes stay pressurised the whole time so any damage by another trade shows on the gauge immediately. Exposed tails are sleeved against sunlight, and on Highveld winter builds the lines are air-tested or glycol-treated before the building is closed in.
What heats the house between phases?
Whatever you would have used anyway, until the plant goes in. If the gap will be long, the floor can be commissioned on a lower-cost heat source first, a gas boiler or an inline electric vessel, and switched to an inverter heat pump later without draining the floor, because the feed lines and valves are sized for the heat pump from day one.
Does installing in phases cost more?
A little. Each extra visit carries site establishment, travel and a full re-test of the floor before connection, about R6,000 to R11,300 incl VAT. Imported plant is also re-priced against supplier lists and the exchange rate before it's ordered, unless you buy it upfront and we store it. Phases 1 and 2 are fixed on deposit.
What does my builder need to do?
Allow a wall chase for the manifold enclosure (about 900 x 1300 mm), run a conduit from each thermostat position to the enclosure and one to the floor for the sensor, cast a level base for the heat pump, and leave the trench open for the feed lines and draw-wires before the slab. We send a builder's requirements list on acceptance and coordinate the pipe installation with the screed date. Nothing is switched on for 21 days after screeding.
Why is the price range so wide?
Three choices account for most of it: pipe grade (PEX or PERT), thermostat type (analog, digital or wi-fi) and heat pump type (inverter or fixed speed). On the same 243 m² house those choices made a R90,000 difference. The floor plan matters too: many small rooms need more pipe and more circuits per square metre than open-plan space.
Is electric underfloor heating cheaper?
Cheaper to install, yes. Cheaper to own, no. An inverter heat pump delivers three to four units of heat for every unit of electricity, so a water system runs about 75% cheaper than electric floor heating for the same floors, and the water system's higher install cost is usually paid back within three to five years. For a single bathroom, electric is often the sensible choice. For a whole house, it isn't.
Is a wood stove, gas fireplace or aircon cheaper to run than underfloor heating?
Per unit of heat, a closed combustion wood stove (R1.20 to R1.70 per kWh) and a reverse-cycle aircon (R1.40 to R1.65) cost about the same as a heat pump water system (R1.04 to R1.19). A gas fireplace costs R3.10 to R4.50 per kWh at 2026 LPG prices, about the same as an electric heater at R4.15. The difference is that a stove, a fireplace or an aircon heats one room; water underfloor heating heats the house for the same cost per kWh, and runs on solar during the day.
What does water underfloor heating cost to run?
On a 243 m² home with an inverter heat pump, our 2026 design came to about 5,600 kWh a year over 100 heating days, or roughly R23,400 at R4.15 per kWh. Electric underfloor heating on the same floors would use about 24,300 kWh, or R100,900. Running the heat pump on solar PV can cut the cost by up to 90%.
Do the prices include VAT?
All per square metre figures on this page are incl VAT at 15% unless stated otherwise. Quotes show the ex VAT amount, VAT and the total.
What does it cost to retrofit water underfloor heating into an existing house?
More than a new build, because floors are lifted and screed depth has to be achievable. It's best done during a renovation when floors are being redone anyway. Where that isn't practical, carbon fibre wall heating is the less invasive option, and electric underfloor heating suits single rooms.
How accurate are the figures on this page?
They're drawn from our own recent quotes and are indicative. The price for your home is fixed in writing after a free site assessment and design, phase by phase, and the build-stage phases don't change once accepted.
Related pages
Building? The other systems we price the same way
Most people planning underfloor heating are planning a house. These are the pages with installed prices on them.
Get a fixed price for your home
Tell us about the house and our system designers will book a free site assessment and come back with a phased quote.
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